here’s a nifty one from friend and instructor colleague Lars Christian Bentsen: overall good guy, great fly tier, Federation of Fly Fishers Master Instructor and Archeologist-Plunderer known around the world as Viking Lars !
i’ve shared different types of loop connections and here’s another ! based on shooting head connections, this very same line core blind splice loop will serve equally well for leader to line tip loop-to-loop or for end of line to backing connections.
each loop takes but a few minutes to make, doesn’t hang-up going through the rod’s guides, is hyper-strong and well worth doing. peace mind for so little effort and cost is hard to beat.
Then there is the issue of connecting the shooting head to the running line. This can be done in several different ways, but some are better than others. Provided both the shooting head and the running line have braided Dacron cores, the best solution is to make a blind splice loop on both parts and simply join these together. This has the great advantage of allowing the angler to change the head within minutes. A blind splice is really quite easy to make, but it does take some practice to get it down right. Follow this description:
Once you’ve found a length/weight of your head that suits both you and your rod, take a piece of stout monofilament (say 20lbs) and make a noose. Using the noose, strip off the coating a centimeter at a time. You’re going to need about 5 cm of exposed core (fig 1).
Once this is done, fray the end with a thin needle, only a centimeter or so and cut away one half of the frayed part. Again using the thin needle, insert it in the core about 1.5 centimeters over where the coating ends and work it down the centre to exit where coating begins. Make sure it goes straight down the centre of the core!!!
Now take a long piece of say 10lbs BS mono and thread the needle with both ends of this (fig 2) and pull it through the core, not completely – you’ll want the mono forming a noose pointing towards the end of the exposed core, the two tag ends towards the tip of the head.
Insert the frayed end into the noose (fig 3) and pull tight and gently pull the core back through itself.
Adjust the size of the loop and pull tight (fig 4) and finally cut off surplus. If you want, you can whip the splice with tying thread. In that case, don’t cut off the surplus. Attach the thread and whip over a centimeter or so and then fold back the surplus and tie this down as well – this does give you double insurance. I rarely whip over the splice myself and I’ve yet to see one open on me.
Now, in either case, coat the splice with clear, soft PVC glue (I use something called Bison, but Loop makes something called Knot Preserver that also works fine and Loon has their Knot Sense) to make a smooth transition and snip-snap and Bob’s your Auntie !!! (fig 5) You will however need to coat this two or three times.