Combed-Over twice

two options:
you can have your Comb-Over like this,

comb_over_minnow

or like this…comb-over

being predominantly bald (by choice) i can’t help with option no. 2 (it is sexy though… ) but if you’re interested in serious streamer design here’s another great tying video tutorial from Curtis Fry at Fly Fish Food.
contrary to what seems like a lot of anglers/tiers might think, creating a successful streamer is a little more involved than just sticking a whole bunch of materials on a hook. Curtis demonstrates several key elements that not only make this design more ‘fishable’ but also more ‘fishyable’.*

“When you’re tying flies that will imitate any sort of baitfish pattern, there are a few factors to consider. Among these factors is buoyancy, lifelike action/look in the water and also “castability”. The Comb-Over minnow is an example of how to incorporate a few of these aspects.”

amongst other goodies to learn in this great tutorial, be sure to take note of the way the back material is tied in evenly around the hook bend, how the head shape is secured by a little dab of UV resin without having to create a hard encased ‘bullet head’ and the use of thinning shears/scissors to finalize the fly and give it the perfect combination of taper, shape and translucency. the last being a very important aspect in my eye with flies made of synthetic materials, something that really makes them come alive. enjoy !

and if you’re in an ‘out-of the-box’ frame of mind, Paul Arden has inverted the color scheme on this Double-Bunny of similar design to be able to visually track the fly. a pretty ingenious idea that brings up the possibility that predator fish, similar to those who like to attack a fish that has just taken a smaller one,  just might be more attracted to baitfish that swim upside-down !

Paul's 'usd' double-bunny* the ability to excite fish while simultaneously relaxing them so much they’ll simply open their mouths and blindly gob.

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The Fast Smudge

for those who know him and are familiar with his tying skills… the very idea of Paul Arden talking about flies and fly design would have most chuckle through various forms of politeness and the hard-core tier would probably just:

tumblr_mn2wg7perm1qbqhhuo1_400

but !  keeping in mind that Paul continuously travels and fishes the World and catches a lot of fish with his heretic flies, in a very special moment of ‘Enlightenment’the man has shared some well-weathered and quite interesting thoughts on this matter and most particularly, by introducing his ‘Smudge’ philosophy.
the avid tier/fisher will notice that this is basically the same idea as the ‘scruffy’ vs ‘nice and neat’ schools of  fly design, however the approach and description make this a real gem well worthy of consideration. enjoy !

” I’m going to pick up on a topic that Bernd wrote about sometime ago, mainly “How to design a great fly”. It’s a topic which many of you will think I know absolutely nothing about, and there is a great deal of truth in this, because I believe that it’s the fish that design great flies, or if they don’t actually design them – because how, or indeed why, would they do that? – then they are responsible for the continual tweaks that we make. All flies I believe are works in progress and it’s only after a very long time, and many fish, do they become somewhat stable.

I also think our background roots in flyfishing have a great deal of influence on how our flies look. Mine was stillwater trout fishing, as virtually everyone knows. I was extremely active in the mid-late 80s when stillwater dry fly started to evolve in the UK. Back then no one I knew fished dries apart from a few regulars who occasionally fished dry sedges. What was waiting to unfold was pretty much a revolution.

I started fishing dries because of my mother! She had visited a tackle shop while on holiday, and presented me with some river dry flies and a can of spray floatant. I was given these in September – they didn’t float very well – but they caught a hell of a lot of fish, and moved a hell of a lot more, and I couldn’t wait to try them the following year. This was at a time when almost everyone stripped lures for trout, the occasional wet fly and there were a few switched-on guys who were fishing buzzers.

It was the next year that I discovered Gink. I’d never seen it before and as far as I know it was new in the UK. Gink changed my life – and everyone else I knew too, so much so that Gink became a verb – to gink, ginking, ginked! I started using damp flies; a Hare’s Ear picked out and I had a fly similar to a picked-out Amber Nymph which I could gink too. I also had Skues’ Little Red Sedge and I was nailing fish on dries! It was around then I met a chap called Dennis who fished for Grafham, he was fishing dries too, and remains to this day one of the best anglers I’ve fished with. Dennis actually tied the first Hopper – a shortened up Daddy Long Legs with an orange body, had some interesting experiments going on and brought dry fly to the competition scene and from there it became known.

The Shipman’s came out soon after and that was a far better fly than the Amber Nymph/Dry that I was fishing and I started tying suspenders too, or maybe I was doing this before, anyway I’ve jumped topic…

So back to the subject! I think a great fish catching fly works for many reasons, the first is it can suggest the life that the fish is eating, which normally means no hard outlines. Imagine the difference between a doll and a human. If I was to present you with a smudge that looks humanish it would be difficult to determine if it was a doll or real. So smudges are good.

A fly that has inbuilt mobility has to be good. It will work for us, just by sitting there. Seal’s fur, soft (hen) hackles, rabbit are good examples of great materials that will move and catch fish even when we’re not pulling them.

Colour is a huge trigger. You can indeed present just a colour – orange for example – and it will catch fish and can be the only answer. Sometimes the colour to fish is not the colour of the naturals. In small flies, I think claret is better than olive for example, certainly when it comes to buzzers. But mixing colours is the best. I try never to use one shade of olive for example, but instead mix two or three different shades. Fish prefer this. Which makes sense when you think of hard outlines. One shade of a colour is the equivalent of a hard outline.

So that’s my philosophy, don’t try to imitate the natural, try to suggest life by presenting a smudge.

Paul's RFU emergerish' thing

Oh, there’s more: A great fly should take between 60 and 120 seconds to tie. There are very few flies I fish that take significantly longer than this. Muddlers (Minnow), Invictas, some nymphs, the RFU and Terminator style flies do take longer – hell I often have flytying competitions with mates, where we tie flies that take literally hours to tie – but the best flies in my opinion should be quick. Ten in twenty minutes would be normal for my best flies.

So we’re talking a fast colourful smudge. Perfect! “

that thing above is Paul’s notorious ‘RFU’  or Royal Fuck-Up. the more you look at it, the more you accept and embed yourself into it, the more you’ll see what makes it such a special fly !
‘Scream’ gif via Tumblr

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Double Tapered vs Weight Forward Fly Lines – Which is really better?

by Bruce Richards via Sexyloops

“What Bruce doesn’t know about flylines, probably isn’t worth knowing. In fact some of what Bruce *does* know about flylines you probably wouldn’t want to know either.”
~ Paul Arden

constantly amazed that this subject is still an issue with so many anglers, on so may forums and by so many ‘experts’, i thought it might be of worth to pull up this article and let Mr FlyLine explain it himself.
of further interest we’ll note that the exact same principles of mass (or of more practical use,  diameter), tapers and lengths apply equally to leaders. a leader is to be designed as the continuation of the fly line and not an entirely separate entity.  what applies to line selection applies to leader selection. the two work hand in hand, so to speak, to enable the fly angler to meet the specific casting/fishing challenge at hand.


“Few fly line subjects have been discussed more than which is the better taper, double taper (DT) or weight forward (WF). The answer is, neither is inherently better, but one may be better than the other for you.

A lot of generalizations are made about these two tapers based on outdated or incorrect information. We’ve all heard that DT lines are more delicate, give better control, roll cast better, etc. In some cases some of these things are true, but not always.

Delicacy of delivery is determined by the mass of the front part of a fly line. This is determined by line diameter (which relates directly to mass), and taper length. A line with a small diameter tip and a long taper has much less mass up front than a line with a large tip and short taper. Don’t be mislead by taper length alone, a line with a long front taper but a large tip diameter will not deliver delicately. A DT and a WF line with the same taper and tip diameter will deliver the same.

For many years most DT and WF lines were made with the same tip diameter and front taper length so there was no difference in how they delivered, although many claimed there was. Today, some of the DT lines are actually designed to be used specifically for spring creek type fishing and do have longer tapers and/or smaller tips.

Anytime a line (or any product for that matter) is designed to do one thing very well it usually has a shortcoming somewhere else. Lines that are designed to be very delicate have little mass in the front to carry larger or heavier flies, and don’t handle windy conditions well. It takes a better caster to throw the kind of loops it takes to make these lines perform their best. And no, DT lines aren’t more “accurate” at normal fishing distances, that is entirely in the realm of the skill of the caster. Good consistent loops and practice are where accuracy come from.

It is very true that DT lines are easier to control and roll cast at longer distances than WF lines. At shorter distances there is no difference. The key to line control and roll casting is that large diameter line belly must be in the rod tip. If small diameter running line is in the tip it is nearly impossible to transmit enough energy through it to the belly to make the line do what you want. What many people don’t consider is that WF lines control and roll cast as well as DT lines at the distances most people fish.

Most WF lines have heads that are 35-40 ft. long. Add a 9 ft. leader and the distance to the fly from the end of the head is 44-49 ft. To that, add the length of the rod since roll cast normally end with the rod parallel to the water and pointed at the target. That is the distance at which DT and WF lines control and roll cast the same. There aren’t many typically trout fishing situations that require roll casts longer than that, and not many casters who can roll cast that far. What this all means is that DT and WF lines work pretty much the same at the distances we fish most of the time.

Certainly if someone fishes a big river that requires a lot of long distance roll casting and mending he or she should consider a DT line or a WF with a long head. Rods longer than 9 ft. are almost a necessity also, roll cast distance and mending performance is directly dependent on rod length.

Everybody knows that WF lines are better for distance than DT lines, but is that really true? Well, yes, but the difference isn’t as big as you might think. Certainly WF lines shoot better because of their small, light running lines. But remember, this benefit starts at 44-49 ft. when the running line is in the rod. If you will be making a lot of long casts it is certainly a little easier to do with a WF line, but don’t think that DT lines won’t shoot, they will, just not as far. With the advent of new slick coatings like AST DTs shoot better than ever.

For most people it probably doesn’t make a lot of difference which taper they use. Most of us fish at distances less then 44-49 ft. which is where WF’s start to shoot better, but lose line control. Most of us don’t have the need, or the ability, to roll cast longer than 45 ft..

So, how do you decide which is right for you? If you do mostly small fly fishing at short to medium range there is no reason not to get a DT line. There is always the budget issue, DT lines are essentially 2 in 1 so are less expensive over time. If you are consistently throwing long casts you will be able to make them with fewer false casts with a WF line, but lose the ability to do long roll casts and mends, if you ever need them, and are able. For most of us it doesn’t make much difference which taper we use most of the time, make your decision based on how much short distance fishing, or long range fishing you do.”


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the trout appear like “sharks” in the waves !

as you’ve noticed, i don’t put up a lot of fishing-for-the-sake-of fishing videos unless it’s about fishing techniques but this one isn’t about technique.
i really like and find this one interesting, not only because it’s made by my friends Paul and Ronan, has campfire explosions, fly rods thrown off cliffs, ‘experienced‘ far away gazing, porn-flick music and drunken ramblings of fish past… but it’s such an interesting mix because it’s extremely exciting and quite boring at the same time.  enjoy !

enlightenment

an extract from the movie with the same name, here’s fly fishing like you’ve probably never seen fly fishing before.
this is Paul Arden, this is Ronan Creane, this is Enlightenment, this is Sexyloops

zander fin

Zanders or (Sander lucioperca), close cousin of the american Walleye (sander vitrium) (sounds viral… )  is a widely distributed fish throughout Europe and considered a prized game fish by many.

ok, now the tech part is finished i want to point out right away that apart from the absolutely gorgeous fin on this smallish (65cm) one i caught above, there’s nothing i enjoy about catching these fish.
if there is one lame-ass fish this is it. once hooked, there’s an initial pull and then what is usually considered the ‘fight sequence’ simply turns out to be a matter of pulling in what seems to be a large plastic bag. that’s it.
“When striking, it fights by a dull pulling backward motion, giving the impression that there is a big stone attached to the line. Because zander is not as good in striking as pike, it prefers slower, even wounded or mentally handicapped fish; a fly moving too fast won’t get the zander’s attention. On the other hand, anecdotal evidence suggests that zander do not attack flies that are moving too slowly either…” 

not only are they stupid but they’re ugly.

Paul Arden used to refer to this make-believe ‘ugly as ‘f’ fish as the fabled half-fish/half bestial/half-something Mugwai.
i just know he was referring to zanders, maybe a temporary mind-zblurb or perhaps a subconscious karma preservation thingy preventing him from pronouncing the Z word.

to redeem themselves of their loathsome lives, they do however sometimes attack human swimmers, usually the keg-party-at-the-lake types so they’re not all that bad.
“In July 2009 in Switzerland, a zander attacked tourists in Lake Maggiore, sending two people to the Emergency Room; the worst cut inflicted was about 10 centimeters long.
The 70-cm 8-kg fish was later caught by the local police who cooked it and offered it to the tourists for the trouble it caused.”

“upstream wetfly kicks arse over downstream wetfly any day”

Upstream Wetfly by Paul Arden

“Another thing to try doing is to watch the water where you think your flies are swimming. Since we are using light spider patterns, on a short line, in fairly fast water, the fish hopefully will have to bulge the surface on the take. With big fish you may actually have to delay your strike, but generally you should set the hook fairly quickly on these takes.

The best approach, however, is to enter a trance. Through intense meditation practices it has been proven that you can hook the impossible fish by leaving your worldly body, and becoming one with your mind. Wearing shoes with natural soles, or perhaps travelling barefoot, will help and is to be thoroughly recommended. What you are trying to attain, without trying of course, is a feeling that something is just about to happen and that you should do something about it and strike.”

sound good ? click Paul’s pic for more reading on what’s strangely enough, a somewhat obscure method of fishing outside of the UK.

 Paul in his WC Stewart outfit:
“Be stealthier than Stealth !”

Tailing Loop: a visual explanation

film-stills casting sequence performed by Paul Arden.

a lot can, has and will be said about tailing loops but before adding any more words i thought it would be of interest to look at this frame by frame sequence because the elements leading to tailing loops are hard to see in real time, even when we’re casting slowly. not only is it cool to look at but it should help understand the descriptions coming soon.

Snap-Lift Switch Cast Sequence

here’s a really cool photo sequence taken from a casting movie Paul Arden, “Mister Sexyloops” filmed several years ago. originally he had named this a ‘Snap-Lift Single-Spey’ but a lot has evolved in fly casting understanding and terminology in recent years so i changed the title because a single spey is a change of direction cast and this one doesn’t change directions ! it’s a Switch Cast (or Jump Roll) with a Snap Lift instead of the more traditional Lift and Sweep normally associated with the Single Spey.

a fun thing to do is to focus the eyes on one area of your screen and scroll down with your mouse or trackpad to sort-of see it as a film made in the early days of cinematography. i’m a sucker for watching fly lines dance in the air so that makes it specially nifty but it’s also very informative as we can easily see how the line evolves from varying rod tip movements, enjoy !

via The Limp Cobra : Snap-Lift Switch Cast.

Sexy Loop

in this film stills sequence Paul Arden demonstrates an exceptionally beautiful front cast, his signature “Sexy Loop”. no bangles, no frills, no fanfare, the line is under perfect tension and control which means all the other elements that make up great casting where performed equally well.
this is as near to perfection as any of us could ever wish for.

have fun with your mouse or trackpad, speeding up or slowing down the sequence. make it go backwards and it turns into the funkiest back cast you’ve ever seen !