and of the interesting things said about them on fly fishing forums.
– ” Been thinking about ‘waterproof’ flyboxes. The only real advantage I reckon is that they should float.
Otherwise this waterproofing stuff is just a method on how to ensure that moisture cannot escape the flybox. How to get nice and rusty flies if you don’t open your boxes to dry after getting home… ” *
– ” I know from experience. They have two advantages they can make your hooks rust faster, and you can watch them drift off on the current, rather than see them sink out of site! If you paint them bright orange, so you can see them better, you can see them float away into the extreme distance.
The worst of all worlds are ones that only float for a short while. They drift off to where you can’t reach them, then sink. There is an inverse square law with the probability of loosing a box being dependent on the cost of the box and the time effort and expense put into filling it.
Not that I’m cynical about it at all ” *
i’m eager to see if anyone comes up with any solutions that aren’t overly complicated…
* (names where withheld to protect the innocent)
as alluded to in yesterday’s post Double Tapered vs Weight Forward Fly Lines – Which is really better?, there’s an enormous amount of let’s say, less than informative information available on the net when it comes to explaining this or that about fly fishing, fly casting and basically fly-anything.
here’s a real gem in the rough in the matter. the poor guy is so lost at attempting to teach us something that he doesn’t know. it would be sad if it wasn’t so funny…. enjoy !
btw, it’s this.
and to get a little more technical, a taper is:
• a gradual narrowing: (click the link at the top of the page for Bruce Richards’ basic explanation of mass, weight distribution and other goodies and how they affect a fly line’s performance).
•diminish or reduce or cause to diminish or reduce in thickness toward one end : the tail tapers to a rounded tip | [ with obj. ] : David asked my dressmaker to taper his trousers.• [ no obj. ] gradually lessen: the impact of the dollar’s depreciation started to taper off .
ORIGIN Old English (denoting any wax candle), dissimilated form (by alteration of p- to t-) of Latinpapyrus (see papyrus), the pith of which was used for candle wicks.
hmm, it turns out that thanks to Mr. DT we found out that the word taper finds it’s origins in candles and we can use it when chit-chatting about trousers so, i guess it aint all bad.
starting off on what will be an ongoing ‘fly casting instruction analysis’ series, this one will be part of my studies on widely available tutorial videos and why they’ll usually induce the viewer to believe something that has been proven otherwise.
why does this bother me ? it bothers me because so many fly fishers are taking these free and abundant videos as references and as fact and these ‘facts’ are continuously propagated while being a great disservice to the angler desiring to learn how fly casting really works. the video below is just an exercise of self promotion, “my style is the only good style” and it’s riddled with inaccuracies such as:
– there is no such thing as one ‘proper grip’. grip choice is not a matter of substance but one of style. it’s a personal choice and the avid angler will learn which works best depending on their physiological abilities and the situation at hand (what they are trying to achieve), which means that the avid angler will use several.
– “altering the grip” involves a little more than keeping the same grip and sliding the rod a little forward or little backward. it does indeed make for a shorter or longer ‘effective rod length’ but for maybe 99% of fly casters it’s just changing the balance point and nothing more.
– moving the hand forward on the grip does not make for tighter loops. a straight line path (SLP) of the rod tip does that.
– having the rod bend at the tip of the thumb is certainly possible but it involves a heck of a lot of force. possible yes for a very experienced caster but very unlikely in the short-accurate cast scenario described, specially when we consider that this video is intended for casters who aren’t ‘very experienced’. it’s safe to say the ‘more experienced’ would have already figured all this out long ago…
– “Some of the World’s best distance casters” don’t hold hold the rod near the bottom of the grip at all but towards the front. it’s interesting to make such bold statements without taking a few minutes to watch, as an example, World Championship videos so readily available on the net.
‘logic’ does point to the ‘longer effective’ rod length or longer lever being an advantage but practicality in the vast majority of cases points the other way around. if anything, personally, i would slide my grip towards the front for longer casts and towards the back for shorter and more intricate casts. i know i’m not the only one so, so much for his theory of ‘proper grip’.
to finish, i’ll add that personal experience has shown that excessive wrist use, probably the biggest problem to resolve in fly casting, is accentuated by the thumb on top grip. this happens on the back-cast where most are unaware of it because they never look back…
outside of the fact that we basically never throw anything with our thumbs pointing forward (which of course makes me wonder how this style ever came about in the first place), it’s not a bad grip but it’s one that needs to be controlled and controlled super-well to have consistent results.
to really finish today’s post, i’m not out to break someone’s back, specially when it’s apparent they haven’t studied much or have a lot of varied experience but contemporary fly casting instruction is about proven facts and not long-ago notions. expect more soon.